Friday, October 21, 2011

Westward

Final morning in Krakow was again, just beautiful.  Our destination in the morning had me wondering what to expect, and it wasn't a feeling I cared for.  We were heading to Auschwitz.  I can't really explain my aprehensiveness in visiting.  Just a gut thing that i wasn't sure how I'd feel being there.  When we arrived, the only way to visit was an English tour, which actually helped.   Our guide was well spoken and served the information in as low key a way as possible.  The horrors of the place are obvious, the history ominous.  The tour at Auschwitz, with the narration is riveting.  I choose not to go into the details, except for one.  The doctor at the platform, shown in a picture, with a shadow, when the trains arrived, and you can see the shadow of his thumb------this way, you live for a short time,  that way, you die.  Berkinau was ten time the size of Auschwitz and more people were put to death there than Auschwitz.  Ninety thousand people in about six acres, in appalling conditions.  I swallowed tears a few times.

From there we started on our way to Prague.  The trees are really starting to turn after the cold weather started, and the colors are beautiful,  The farmers are fininshing the harvest, taking in the last of the hay and the corn.  Tractors are all over the road.  One thing we both noticed is that we pass at least one serious accident a day here in Poland.  We planned on staying one night on the road and that almost came to fruition. On our way to Klodsko, just about fifteen minutes out, a truck jacknifed and blocked the highway.  So close, yet so far away.............The guy behind us walked up and came back.  Donna insisted that i ask if he spoke English, which he did.  "Follow me" and we set off on back road that we would never have dreamed of.  The guy was an AMAZING driver, one of the best I've ever followed.  It was, as I mentioned earlier, like being in a rally car.  I was having the time of my life following this guy, though farmland, forests, and hills.  Down gullys and through intersections that weren't there.  What fun!
Got to the main road, he turned ahead of a truck, and we lost him.  Would have bought his dinner, but are pretty sure he just wanted to get home to his family.  Will pay it forward when the oppotunity presents itself........

Got to Klodsko, which they call the Prague of Poland.  Rain came and we made a circle of the town looking for a hotel.  I found one and was heading back to it when Donna spotted another.  A couple of illegal turns and we ended up and Casa d'oro hotel.  Room avialable for sixty bucks including breakfast.  Great room on the top floor, with a view of the old town, which was amazing.  The rain made everything shine.  It was lovely.  Went to the restaraunt and had the dinner special.  The starter, mushroom soup, was the best!  I will work on that recipe when we get back. We both were amazed.  Dinner was pork roast with "mashed" potatoes, and three kinds of "salad".  Two kinds of cabbage, both cooked and one kind of slaw that we've had in numerous places, and will try to replicate at home.
Total for everything, including drinks, wine, and grappa was less than thirty bucks.....

Arrived in Prague around noon yesterday, got to the hotel around 1:30.  Not the easiest place to find without a GPS.  Only drove down one pedestrian only street, though it seemed like many more.  The only good thing that came out of it was when I was in the middle of the pedestrian square, I was able too spot the Marriott.  We decided that after eleven years of keeping my Marriott points I had accumulated when I was working, by staying at a marriott one night a year, that this would be as good a place as any to finally use them up.  (I stlll have enoough left for one night in Paduchah Kentucky or some place like it.)  We actually decided on here versus Vienna, cause the parking at the hotel here is a third of Vienna.........great reasoning!  Prague is charming.  Last time we were here, we spent too much time with our friend Gordy, an ex-pat that lives here.  We didn't touch base with him this time so we could have the days for ourselves.  our location is great, about a quarter mile from the main square, an easy walk.  Lunch today was amazing, mixed grill with pork chop, belly, "neck" and sausage, with two kinds of cooked cabbage.  I've got to figure out a way to make cabbage this well.  Spent numerous stops at sidewalk cafes for coffee.  Heaters, fireplaces, and screen against the wind make it wonderful.  Sat directly under the astronomical clock at one, about 18 inches above the tourists on the square and had the most wonderful views of it.  Donna has posted the picture on her facebook page, and if you haven't signed to be her friend, you definitely should.  tommorrow we're heading for Cesky Krumlov for a coule of nights and then to Vienna........an unplanned visit.  From there, Budapest for four nights, the Julian Alps for a few, Lake Pevitza, and then towards Italy, via Slovenia and possibly Croatia.

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